This website uses cookies

Read our Privacy policy and Terms of use for more information.

Prague had been sitting on my list for years.

Not because it was difficult to reach. Quite the opposite. Europe is full of places that are easy to visit “one day”, which often means they never quite make it to the top of the list.

We arrived in early January. The Christmas markets were still operating, although only just. The holiday crowds had largely gone home, hotel prices had fallen back toward normality, and the city felt busy without feeling overwhelmed.

The hotels gave the trip its structure. Between them, we spent a few days walking, eating, and seeing what Prague looked like after the holiday crowds had gone home.

These were some of the moments in between.

Charles Bridge arch framing Prague Castle at dusk, with illuminated buildings reflected on the Vltava River.

Charles Bridge at dusk, with Prague Castle beginning to light up across the river.

Historic red tram passing beneath ornate buildings in central Prague.

Trams are part of everyday life in Prague.

Art Nouveau facade of Municipal House in central Prague.

Municipal House was one of my favorite buildings in the city.

The Powder Tower rising above pedestrians in Prague’s historic centre.

We seemed to end up back at the Powder Tower more than once.

Museum of Torture sign featuring a black raven in Prague’s Old Town.

Prague leans into its darker tourist attractions.

Shop advertisement promoting beer-based shampoo in Prague.

I wasn’t aware beer shampoo was a thing until this trip.

Traditional toy shop display in Prague’s Old Town.

One of many shopfronts that felt unchanged by time.

Smoke rising from a food stall at Prague’s Christmas market in early January.

The Christmas markets were still operating, although only just.

Christmas tree and market stalls in Prague’s Old Town Square after New Year.

A few more days and most of this would be gone for another year.

Church of Our Lady before Týn overlooking Prague’s Old Town Square at dusk.

The Christmas markets were still standing, but Prague already felt like it was moving back into its normal rhythm.

Detail of Prague’s medieval Astronomical Clock.

Every visitor eventually ends up standing in front of the Astronomical Clock. We were no exception.

Visitors crossing Charles Bridge beneath the Old Town Bridge Tower after dark.

Charles Bridge remained busy even after the main holiday period had ended.

Boat passing along the Vltava River beneath illuminated Prague Castle.

Prague Castle dominated the skyline, whether we were looking for it or not.

Evening view of Prague Castle above the city rooftops from Charles Bridge.

The view toward Prague Castle from Charles Bridge after dark.

Live jazz musicians performing aboard a river cruise on the Vltava.

We spent one evening on the Jazz Boat, watching Prague slide past through the windows.

Quote on a Jazz Boat window overlooking Prague at night.

“It’s taken me all my life to learn what not to play.”

Most days followed a fairly simple pattern: walk until we were cold, hungry, or both.

Exterior of Kantýna restaurant in Prague.

The W Prague suggested Kantýna for lunch while our room was being prepared.

Busy dining room inside Kantýna restaurant.

Kantýna was busy, loud, and exactly what we wanted that afternoon.

Traditional Czech meal and beer served at Kantýna.

Czech beer, plenty of meat, and a welcome escape from the January cold outside.

January turned out to be an excellent time to visit. The Christmas markets were still standing, but the city had largely moved beyond the holiday rush.

The hotels gave the trip its structure. Prague gave it its texture.

Part of the Prague in January series

Recommended for you

View all
caret-right